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Exhibit A: Guy Bourdin (2001) - Luc Sante, Michel Guerrin, Samuel Bourdin, Fernando Delgado [Amazon.com] [FR] [DE] [UK]
White Women (1992) - Helmut Newton
[Amazon.com] [FR] [DE] [UK]
Photographers: Cecil Beaton - Alva Bernadine - Guy Bourdin - William Klein - David LaChapelle - Helmut Newton - Bettina Rheims - Paolo Roversi - Ellen Von Unwerth
The canon: Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin
Helmut Newton (1920 - 2004) and Guy Bourdin (1928-1991) are my two favourite fashion photographers. When working for the leading fashion magazines of the 1960s and 1970s they combined in their images striking erotic and S&M themes which have been widely imitated ever since.
Their immediate successors included a number of fashion photographers who co-defined the high glamour, sexually aggressive period of the 1970s: Sarah Moon, Deborah Turbeville and Chris von Wangenheim.
While Newton’s porno-chic has made him the most famous photographer of the 1970s, Bourdin is equally as central to the revolution in fashion photography at this time with his morbid fantasies built on sex, death and exquisite shoes.
Bourdin's influence in particular has become apparent in recent years: Madonna's 2003 music video for "Hollywood" was greatly influenced by the photography of Bourdin, so much so that a lawsuit was brought on against her by Bourdin's son for copyright infringement.
Terry Richardson: Son of Bob () - Terry Richardson
Terry Richardson: Son of Bob () - Terry Richardson [Amazon.com] [FR] [DE] [UK]
Terry Richardson (born 1965) is a noted American photographer.
Richardson was born in New York City and was raised in Hollywood, California. He has been producing work since the late 1980s and has shot advertisements for numerous fashion designers, including Gucci, Levi's, Hugo Boss, Anna Molinari, Baby Phat, Matsuda, and his most prolific work for Sisley. In addition to advertisement work, Richardson has also shot editorial photographs for a wide array of magazines, including Vogue, Vice , Harpers Bazaar, The Face, and Sports Illustrated. He is the son of fashion photographer Bob Richardson. He has exhibited in Japan, London, New York and Paris.
Richardson's published output is not limited to the contractual work listed above – the full body of his photography can be amusing, bizarre, and shocking to most. Much of it contains sexual elements of a kind not ordinarily seen in mainstream media; Richardson's own sexuality is the subject of much speculation. His trademark style is notably raw, direct, and amateurish, though he is not an amateur. Examples of his photography can be viewed on his website. --http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terry_Richardson [Nov 2006]
Sante D'Orazio: Photographs (2000) - Sante D'Orazio
Sante D'Orazio: Photographs (2000) - Sante D'Orazio [Amazon.com] [FR] [DE] [UK]
Sante D'Orazio is one of the most important image-makers working in the area of fashion and editorial photography today. Manifested in the sexy and vibrant campaigns he has produced for clients such as Versace, Tommy Hilfiger, Victoria's Secret, Revlon, and L'Oreal, D'Orazio's signature style-a unique blend of art and commerce-has become a mainstay of the fashion industry. Since the 1980s, the photographer has also worked editorially for numerous magazines including American Vogue, Esquire, Town & Country, Detour, Max, Interview and Vanity Fair. In this follow-up to his enormously successful first book, A Private View (1998), D'Orazio again presents his most thrilling images of supermodels like Kate Moss, Christy Turlington, Cindy Crawford, and Helena Christenson, while sharing his best portraits of such entertainment personalities as Catherine Zeta-Jones, Angelina Jolie, Jennifer Lopez, Mariah Carey, Cameron Diaz, Johnny Depp, Sean Penn, and Antonio Banderas. Produced in a large format design, and exquisitely printed on fine Italian paper, Sante D'Orazio, Photographs is certain to delight anyone interested in the art of fashion and portrait photography. Containing loads of previously unpublished material as well as D'Orazio's classic editorial work, Sante D'Orazio: Photographs is a sexy tribute to one of today's most impressive photographers. --via Amazon.com
Sarah Moon: Coincidences (2001) - Sarah Moon
Sarah Moon: Coincidences (2001) - Sarah Moon [Amazon.com] [FR] [DE] [UK]
Born in England in 1940 (as Marielle Hadengue), Moon made her name in haute couture fashion photography with luxurious and mysterious compositions. This gorgeous volume brings together that work with her other images in an exciting first retrospective. In the fashion work, her models are studious and disengaged, often turned away or intentionally blurred themselves transformed to a compositional element. Images of animals, portraits, still lifes, and wonderful landscapes both rural and urban fill out her oeuvre. In her black-and-white images, Moon (also a filmmaker) masterfully tends the edges of darkness where the merest hints of light create detail, texture, and form. Her tasty color work is highly saturated and grainy. Innovative, witty, and seductive, Moon's photographs draw the viewer into a dream world, at once soothing and vaguely troubled like the opening of a storm. Everything a great art book should be, this volume makes apparent Moon's original contribution to photography over the last 30 years. Highly recommended for large public and academic photographic departments, the book may be of special interest to clothing design/fashion collections. Debora Miller, Minneapolis --Copyright 2002 Reed Business Information, Inc.
A fashion and commercial photographer since 1968, and also a filmmaker, Sarah Moon is known for her dreamlike images and her representation of femininity as free from time and context, as living in a fairy world. Although Moon has been a major participant in the world of fashion for more than three decades, she has carefully carved out her own niche -- a signature style that dispenses with the erotically suggestive poses favored by many of her male counterparts in favor of the emblems of luxury and nostalgia. Mystery and sensuality are at the core of Moon's work, whether she's photographing haute couture, still life, or portraiture. In this book, Moon's first major retrospective, viewers will be treated to a visual tour-de-force, showing all the genres she has explored in her rich and diverse career. --Book Description
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